Let’s talk about…cleansers

2020 has been many things, one of those being the year I experimented more with cleansers. Keeping my trusty Boots wash in close proximity but delved into the world of balms and oils.

There are sooo many out on the market, it can be tricky to know where to start, what to try and what to leave alone. Along with the debate of when to cleanse (morning and/or night), and how long to cleanse for. To exfoliate or not to exfoliate? That is most definitely the question. I guess it all depends on your skin type, your beauty concerns and how much time you have to spare. I know some prefer to keep it simple with bar soap and water, whereas others have the full works including a facial brush, or nowadays smarter beauty tech like the extensive Foreo range. I’d like to say I’m somewhere in the middle, all for simplicity, particularly at night, but I could easily spend a good 10 minutes cleansing when a balm cleanser is involved.

Its so easy to get sucked into always buying the newest cleanser [or insert new beauty product here] everyone is talking about. I mean I work in beauty marketing, so I’m not about to tell you to ignore it (please don’t). I just want to say that whilst the FOMO is real and the joy of new beauty is also real, it can sometimes lead to trying a little too much that may do some damage to your skin, specifically your skin barrier. I’d say cleansers are for the most part harmless in this area but with so many coming on the market with actives and other complex ingredients, it could arguably be on the verge.

The importance of understanding your skin type well plays a key role, so you can focus on what you and your skin needs and not undo all the hard work the rest of your routine is working on. Thankfully there are brilliant educators and skinfluencers out there to help in those tricky decisions, but its great to know your own goals for your skincare to aid considered and researched purchases! I’ve definitely got my eye on some cleansers but as you can see I already have an extensive cleanser list below to work through before I add newbies to the mix. Before I potentially buy, I try to assess whether it will elevate, simplify or irritate my skincare routine; or just gather dust in the bathroom drawer. Other times, I’m also an impulse purchaser. Balance.

The Basics: when and how should I cleanse?

What I’ve learnt is that whilst most people should cleanse in the morning and double cleanse at night time as best practice, this would differ depending on your skin type. For instance, if you have a drier skin type, cleansing your skin 2-3 times a day may be too stripping whereas this wouldn’t impact those of us with oilier skin type as much. As someone with a combination-oily skin type, my morning cleanse is something gentle yet effective such as the Boots Cucumber Wash or the Clinique Liquid Facial Soap, both of which have a nice slightly foamy lather to them and refreshing with a splash of cold water. In the evening I’ve moved towards richer formulas, such as oil-based balm cleansers, which remove SPF and makeup from the day whilst still nourishing my skin. I’d recently attended a skincare masterclass hosted by Adeola Boyega and House of Fraser, and she shared that we should avoid using a foaming cleanser at night time so not to further dry out your skin. Something I’d not thought about before but took into consideration when thinking about my two-step cleanse.

I’ve started to diligently follow the ever famous 60 second rule, originally coined by LABeautyologist , whereby you should wash your face for 60 seconds to allow the ingredients to work. I can imagine this is especially relevant for those using cleansers for treatment purposes and those with active ingredients such as Vitamin C or Salicylic Acid. Personally I’ve found this to be a great technique for the aforementioned reasons of course, but also its an extra minute of me time and focusing on just massaging my skin. If you don’t already, would highly recommend giving it a go, especially to really work in your oil and balm cleansers into the skin.

You’ll see as you read on that I’m partial to a cleanser that works up a foamy lather, along with lotions too. However, there’s just something luxurious about a balm that is hard to replicate. And let’s be honest, I think we all deserve a bit of luxury or #selfcare this year, and I think adding a cleansing balm into your routine every so often is a perfect way to do it.

How do I know which is the best cleanser for me?

It all depends on your skin type and what you’re looking to achieve, if you will. If you have dry or eczema sensitive skin, you’re likely to opt for formulas that are richer in texture and aim to hydrate and moisturize your skin rather than strip it further. Oily skin types often seem to shy away from hydration or anything oil based for the fear of encouraging the oiliness, when actually this isn’t the case and instead should find cleansers that aren’t stripping but boost hydration.

Its important to note its not one size fits all; I personally have a combination oily skin type and there is conflicting advice as to whether I should stay away from foaming and balm cleansers, but me and my skin seem to enjoy them nevertheless. I think its also important to say cleansers (and your skincare routine as a whole) is likely to change with differing seasons and weather, and different skin needs or goals too. So all I’d advise to read up on reviews and recommendations in combination with your own research and trial to see what your skin gets on with in the long term. I would recommend reading this article and also this one by Paula’s Choice, which yes recommends their range, but also nicely decodes which formulas suit certain skin types and why.

Do I need to add a cleansing brush or smart tool to my cleansing routine?

I’m going to sound like a broken record but its honestly dependent on your skin and equally your budget. There is a big debate forever going around as to whether you should or shouldn’t invest in beauty tech or manual cleansing brushes, and there are strong cases for both sides. Beauty tech such as the Foreo are fun to use, and can help with understanding your skin better with smart capabilities such as the skin analysis features in the more advanced (and high price point) ranges. Because of that though, people can overuse them, forgetting that the brushes – whilst silicone and gentle – are still a form of physical exfoliation, which can cause damage to the skin barrier if not used correctly or too frequently. Cleansing brushes have come under fire under the question of whether the bristles are a breeding ground for breakout-inducing bacteria, and so most people advise to stay away where you can. From what I’ve understood, you don’t necessarily need a device to help in your routine but if you do, choose one that has silicone bristles – easier to clean and more hygienic – and don’t overuse it (recommended no more than 3 days a week).

Your own hands are your best tool in your routine (of course ensuring you’ve washed them prior to washing your face), potentially surpassing any facial massage tool probably. However, I would recommend is introducing a flannel (or a wash cloth, muslin, microfibre) into your cleansing routine. Its a great way of gently exfoliating but also ensuring those often neglected areas such as around your nose and hairline are tackled, as well as removing stubborn mascara. Just ensure you use a clean one everyday, otherwise we’re back on the same issue of hygiene again. A tip from most skinfluencers is getting one for each day of the week from places such as Primark, so its affordable and then throwing into your weekly wash. I promise I’ll shut up about balm cleansers soon but honestly I love soaking a flannel in warm water and laying it on my face for a few seconds to “melt” it slightly, and then using as advised to properly remove any residue.

I’d say it’s time to see some products! Have a read on for the lowdown of all the cleansers (that I can remember) that I’ve tried and tested. Bear with me, I have a lot. This post also made me realise I need to go on a cleanser specific spending ban.

Bobbi Brown Extra Rinse Balm*, £51

Truth be told, I’d blindly picked this up at work during an exciting cupboard clear out and then panic packed it in my bag for the first lockdown. I’m SO glad I did as I’m now in love. This single-handedly converted me to balm cleansers, and may just be one of my faves overall. Packed with skin loving ingredients, strong (yet bearable) citrus scent, it’s a dose of luxury perfect for melting away the day and your makeup. I love to soak a flannel in warm water and rest it on my face before I remove the balm, and honestly feels like you’re at a spa. Now although I’m obsessed, I’m aware its on the pricier side and a big treat, my tip would be keep a look out on social media pages of Bobbi Brown’s ambassadors – such as Cher Webb and Melissa’s Wardrobe – and pro artists, as they occasionally will have discount codes. Otherwise, I would say add it to your future gift lists or go for it and treat yourself – you deserve it.

Clinique Take The Day Off Balm, from £9 (various sizes available)

I’d heard people refer to this balm as the OG cleansing balm next to the Elemis Pro-Collagen ones. So naturally I picked one up, just mini at first though to trial, but it’s a generous size, perfect for travel or like me just testing pre-committing to the full size. This does the job well but I’ve found this to be quite bland, if that’s the word, especially when compared to Bobbi Brown. Granted it’s half the price and fragrance free so I shouldn’t expect too much but I can’t help but feel like it’s missing something. Nevertheless it breaks makeup down well and quickly – although I have noticed my sink is a little messier when I use this – and its affordability when it comes to trial and replenishment plus being sensitive skin friendly, are big bonuses.

REN Clean Skincare Perfect Jelly Cleanser, £25

A newbie to the cleanser roster as again I’d heard on the grapevine and sponsored ads it’s a great one, particularly for breaking down SPF. It’s very unique in that it starts as a balm/jelly formula that becomes an oil when rubbed in, which for a lot of cleansers these days is pretty standard. But wait for it. Add warm water it now transforms into a milky lotion. I’ve enjoyed this and found my skin feels supple but cleansed afterwards. However, similar to Clinique, it’s not got that wow/luxury factor for me. The slight edge it has over Bobbi, is that it easily removes eye makeup without irritation or stinging (which I imagine for Bobbi is due to the citrus). So on the few and far between makeup days it’s a go to product, but actually great for non-makeup days to remove the sometimes stubborn SPF and general oiliness from the day.

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap (Oily Skin Formula), £18*

A recent addition to my cleanser roster but a great one at that. Very similar to the Boots Cucumber Wash, but a slightly lighter gel formula, plus this one is made especially for us with combination-oily or oily skin type. As with most Clinique products, this has no fragrance and is gentle on the skin, still giving a generous lather whilst not stripping or drying out the skin. I’ve been interchanging with this the Boots one but the added luxury of of supple and soft skin post-cleanse gives this one has the slight edge.

Liz Earle Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser, from £10 (various sizes available)

The ever-famous Hot Cloth Cleanser. I always saw a friend at uni use this almost every night and thought she was boujie as, or at least in comparison to my Garnier wash and Boots face wipes for a night time routine (don’t). I didn’t properly try it for myself until about a year later, having bought it for my younger sister (who’s the epitome of luxury when it comes to skincare – I’ve only got myself to blame for that). This is a nice thick lotion consistency instantly moisturising upon massaging into the skin and even after rinsing. Packed with skin nourishing, soothing ingredients such as cocoa butter, rosemary, chamomile and eucalyptus whilst gently yet effectively getting rid of the dead skin, makeup or skincare. Using a warm flannel, or one of their muslin cloths, adds that calming luxurious experience everyone needs at the end of the day. I personally find this more effective as a nourishing second cleanse, when the bulk of my makeup is already off, so would suggest using a first cleanse or dedicated makeup remover beforehand. I would say its the happy middle ground between the super premium and drugstore, with 50ml starting at just £10 , and offering starter packs that include the cloths. Its available in various different sizes, scents and even a bespoke one for men (not that they couldn’t enjoy the original) – so there really is something for everyone. (Tip: its classed as a Boots brand, so look out for extra special offers and discounts, particularly the ‘Fill Your Boots’ ones where you save a little more should you want to try!)

Boots Cucumber Daily Facial Wash, £1.50

No matter how much luxury I talk about, almost always will there be a Boots own brand product to keep me grounded. The cucumber skincare Boots range is one of my favourite, and this wash has been a constant in my toiletries bag. It’s super gentle, refreshing and soothing on my skin in the morning and perfect to finish off as a second cleanse in the evening. One thing I love is that I can use this in the AM and PM if I wanted to – a splash of cold water with this is an instant refreshment, whereas slightly warmer temperature in the evening is soothing. The gel formula works into a good lather with water, and doesn’t irritate the eyes, or sensitive/temperamental skin. Its not my most moisturising of cleansers but its not as stripping as you expect for £1.50; follow it up with a good moisturiser or full out routine, you’re good to go.

Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser, from £8

One of my first ever Glossier purchases, as shock horror, I’d heard good things about this one too. I bought the mini as I didn’t want to commit to the large one (Becky on the other hand went for it). Can’t lie, glad I stuck with the small one. This didn’t wow me. Like it cleansed as a cleanser should but I was quite underwhelmed, but equally maybe I should assess my high expectations for cleansers. Not to waste this try to finish it, I started to use it as a second cleanse which I found it performed best for me, as it’s quite gentle; also worked well as a morning or bare skin day cleanse too.

Super Facialist Vitamin C Cleansing Oil, £12

Another one where I was #influenced. Here we say hello to my first oil cleanser – am I late to the party? This sounded promising as it contained vitamin C, and sounded like it was a potential Bobbi dupe in oil form. I won’t lie, I’m on the fence about this one, probably because 9/10 I’ve played myself by getting it into my eyes; just imagine putting orange or lemon in your eye. This one also has quite a strong orange scent which I’d usually hate but thankfully it doesn’t linger once washed off. It leaves my skin feeling plump and moisturisers but I’ve found I’ve had to go in with something a little more heavy duty to fully remove any eye makeup. One thing I’ve not done is do a double cleanse with just this oil – and be more careful around my eyes – so maybe that may change my mind and I’ll get the full benefit.

Garnier Micellar Water + Gel Wash, from £1.99 (various sizes and formulas available)

Started off with the micellar water most people know and love, and I still do. However, in my bid to make my skincare routine more travel and eco-friendly, I moved to its sister – the gel wash. This is a beautiful gentle gel formula that is brilliant for removing makeup. I have often double cleansed with just this before, because it’s so gentle and to get those last stubborn bits off. It prides itself on being able to remove waterproof makeup and lipstick, and I can vouch this is true. I never bought into buying the matching remover for Benefit They’re Real mascara (what a sneaky ploy) as this worked wonders and the huge 700ml size is under a tenner. Winner. Over time, Garnier have released different variants of the water to suit different skin types, the rose, milky and oil infused versions and more recently the reusable cotton pads to accompany them. I’ve since ordered the mini sensitive skin one that I had before, more for cleaning up any makeup mistakes, but will look into getting the rose or one for combination skin next.

Nivea Creme Care Cleansing Lotion, from £2.99

Started buying this in my Boots staff shop trips, to use with my facial brush at the time but recently rediscovered my love for this. Not sure if it’s just me who find it odd it’s a cream but a cleanser? Either way I enjoy it, and it’s one of the few that feels instantly moisturising during and after washing your face. It’s not the most cleansing cleanser (lol) but it’s a lovely way to round off your evening cleanse; especially if you’ve been scrubbing at your face, this really soothes the skin.

L’Oreal Paris Pure Clay Glow Scrub, £5.99

A physical scrub!? I know I know, stop screaming. I can’t help it though, it’s just so good. For those unsure and slightly worried I’m talking to myself, I’m referring to the ongoing physical v chemical exfoliant debate. The argument is physical can be rough damaging to the skin barrier, some formulas have beads that aren’t always environmentally friendly. I dabble in a bit of both but I’m not going to pretend that there’s nothing satisfying about a good scrub wash. This I find is one of the more gentle ones, and with minimal pressure is radiance boosting. I have this in mask form too, and actually bought this on holiday thinking it was this, but loved it and bought it since. Because it’s clay based, this nicely doubles up as a speedy mask, which is perfect for travel. Love a multi product.

Origins GinZing Revitalising Scrub*, £18

Another one!? Yep, sorry (I’m not). This came in our most recent work goody bag, and I didn’t realise it was a scrub at first. Similar to the L’Oreal, this is gentle and the particles aren’t chunky which I love as it doesn’t feel scratchy and rinses away easily. If I find any haven’t washed away, they’re easily swept away with a soft damp flannel or a gentle second rinse such as the Boots Cucumber wash. Part of the coveted GinZing range, its very refreshing and has an unoffensive orange scent that goes away once you’ve washed but stays there just long enough to feel wake you up in the morning. It leaves my skin feeling really clean, without being overly drying like other cleansers can do. I say overly because occasionally I have felt that slight tightness post-rinse, nevertheless, this could also be down to the water temperature. As with my other physical scrubs, I make a point not to use them too often or on the same day I decide to chemically exfoliate with acids; as whilst I do both, doing both at the same time is team too much.

Have you tried any of the cleansers I’ve listed? Drop any of your favourite cleaners or cleansing gems of wisdom in the comments below too!

Until next time,

Esther xoxo